These the perspective, front, and end views of the plan.
I tapered some 2x8 to provide a slightly slanted wall for the full sheets to lean against. It was simple and quick to cut them on the PBB. Since the floor of the barn has a slight slope for drainage, I made the 2x8 blanks about a half inch long, cut the tapers based on the top of the blank, and then cut off the bottom to fit that pieces location. The jig for cutting the tapers consisted of a notched piece of 1/2" MDF screwed to the PBB table, and a short block clamped further down the side of the blank to help keep it lined up.
All I had to do was place a top corner of the blank in the notch, line up the side of the blank to the other stop, lower the bridge, and cut one side. I then lifted the bridge, removed the blank, flipped it over, placed the other top corner in the notch, and repeat for the other side. Here is a video of the process.
As you can see, the WORX does not quite cut all the way through some 2xs, but what is left is paper thin and not a problem. I guess I should have run them all through the planer first to get an even thickness, but this is just a storage rack...
I started by lag screwing the vertical pieces against the wall to the 2x4 furring strips that the OSB is fastened to. There are no studs because this is a pole barn. It only has post tied together with 2x8s, so I added 2x4s flat against the 2x8s to provide attachment points for the OSB and anything I wanted to attach to the wall. The vertical 2x4s at the front of the rack are screwed to the bottom member of the truss and the horizontal members that are screwed to the posts. Here I have installed the first taper piece and a horizontal member.
The same state of construction, but from the end of the rack. There is 10 feet from the end of the rack to the corner, so plenty of room for loading and unloading the rack. I raised the rack so that the full sheets can be slid directly to and from my plywood cart for transportation to the workshop. Eventually, I will have a walkway between the barn and the shop to make moving things easier.
The nearly complete rack. The boards I used for horizontal rails along the sides are from cedar planks I removed from the screen porch before it became a sun room, hence the spots of light gray stain. The bottoms of the two sections for full sheets is 3/4" Melamine covered MDF. The rest of the shelves are 1/2" OSB.
Here I added to swinging members that will keep sheets from falling out of the front bin. These pivot up when I need to sort through the sheets from the front. Sheets can also be loaded and unloaded from the end. This bin will be used for full and partial sheets, so I will need to have access from the front to sort through to find what I need. The free ends of the swinging members are held in place by brackets when they are down.
Here the swinging members are up for access from the front.
This is a CU of the bracket that keeps the member from being pushed away from the rack.
When swung up, the members are held up by lag screws that protrude about 1 1/4". There is just enough play at the fastened end to allow the member to be pulled out and over the lag screw.
The rack was nearly full once I got every thing out of the shop.
Note the antique Gulf thermometer on the wall. It was from a service station my Dad ran back in the mid 40s after the war.
Bin A is for full sheets only.
Bin B has full and partial sheets >24" wide.
Bin C is for partial sheets >48" long and <=24" wide.
Bin D is for partial sheets >40" but <=48" long and <= 24" wide. Since I have a lot of strips 6-8" wide, Im thinking about dividing this bin vertically. One side will be a full 24" high, the other will be two bins @10" high each.
Bin F each part is 40" deep and @20" high.
Bin G each part is 20" deep and @22" wide.
Bin H Each shelf is 40" deep and @22" wide.
All of these are for smaller cut-offs and what-have-you.
Now that the rack is finished, I need to get teh shop better organized.
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